The discussion of sustainability and responsibility in coffee production is more than two decades old. Now the discussion has moved from the circle of the coffee professional and into the realm of the specialty coffee consumer. At my local upscale market, for instance, there are several “organic” coffees of different roast and varietals, each boasting a specific farm or family as the source for their blend. What is this all about?
My initial introduction to organic coffee centered around whether or not any residual chemical fertilizers used in commercial coffee production remained in the bean after roasting. Some sources said yes, of course, and others pointed out that after roasting at 500 degrees, what pesticide could remain? We are used to thinking about such things concerning the food we eat: added hormones in milk, “free range” versus “commercial” chickens, even which grapes to buy. Only now, it’s coffee.
But there is more to the discussion of organic coffee, or any other food, than purity. The current discussion revolves around the idea of sustainability and accountability. I had never considered that the Costa Rican Terrazu I was roasting may have been grown in rain forest soil that had been clear-cut–deforested– in order for the farmer to stay in business and feed his family. If a tropical coffee farmer has to move from shade-grown to sun-grown coffee in order to compete in the marketplace, some portion of the rain forest is removed. I certainly don’t want that responsibility clouding my morning cup.
Accountability is a particularly modern discussion. As technology shrinks our world, our interrelatedness becomes more apparent. In becoming coffee aficionados, we didn’t necessarily want to take on the moral responsibility for the state of the world. I didn’t anyway. So, I believe there is an elegant argument that eschews morality, or any liberal cause. The argument in favor of accountability and sustainability in coffee production is quality.
The issue of quality begins with the merits of shade-grown coffee. A farmer raising shade grown coffee is committed to a more labor-intensive and inventive model of farming than his counterpart who may level rough terrain, clear cut acreage, and plant a hybrid Coffea Arabica plant that responds to direct sunlight and chemical fertilizers. The “technified” farm can lower the cost of production and turn a better profit, but at what cost? For one, the bio-diversity of rain forest land is being destroyed through the technification of farming. An ecosystem, where the complex interrelationships between man, plants, animals and insects can be sustained is considered to be the best insurance for prosperity of all living systems. Humans, included. If a farmer can commit to weed maintenance through creative and organic means, then the tree canopy can continue to host hundreds of species of migratory birds that live there. These birds, in turn, fertilize the soil of the rain forest, regulate insect populations, spread fruit seeds which plant trees. In essence, bio diversity maintains quality of life. Secondly, shade grown coffees, like bourbon and tipica, retain more distinction in the cup. They are grown in manner that preserves a region’s “flavor.”
With organizations like Equal Exchange, a consumer cooperative organization, small coffee farms can create a collective bargaining body to insure a stable and fair price for their coffee. Equal Exchange, though based in Canton, MA, imports from select, small farming cooperatives internationally. Jonathan Rosenthal writes, “Our dream of understanding and strengthening the interconnectedness of all us here on the planet has become more real as we have forged friendships and partnerships with farmers, academics, store owners, coffee roasters, traders and our co-workers. Thank-you.”
It is that vision which best argues for quality every step of the way in coffee production. As the second largest commodity in the world. Attention to accountability and quality literally touches the lives of millions.
Joel Bell is Jool @ earthlink.com